Dolce and Gabbana and Eyes

[youtube.com/watch?v=jdo44wK45SM]

I thought this was such a lovely fashion show. The beautiful prints and colours look so fresh and Italian! It was called “Sicilia”and was a return to their native roots. Style.com called the collection a “crowd pleaser” which I suppose translates as commercial and suggested they move out of their comfort zone but I think it’s beautiful and worth looking at.

I was chatting to Alex, my guest blogger this week, about the film Skyfall and about how much I enjoyed it. We discussed the amazing visuals, the beautiful music, the return of a typical Bond villain, the stunts and the some of the settings. I thought it was a visual feast with the fight scene in the office building in Shanghai that looked like two fighting Chinese shadow puppets and the lanterns bobbing around on the water at the casino in Macau. Alex was telling me how she had been reading up about the make up used on Dame Judy Dench and the techniques they had used to make her eyes look younger. For example, as you age, your brows droop and there are lots of shading tricks and techniques to combat that. I thought that seeing how she has read up on it and watched a few on line tutorials on the subject of make up and aging eyes that I would ask her to share what she found out.

‘Most women regardless of their make up experience, skill and brands  will tend to know what works for their eye shape because they have been looking at it and doing it for so long! This is not supposing that age or inexperience require a whole back to basics lesson, rather once one reaches a certain age much about their face might have altered, and almost always we have “go to” styles, colors and a way of doing it. As well as looking at changing eye shapes, this is as much about what women think they can or can’t get away with in terms of styles and colors, or just looking at something different and encouraging experimenting or updating one’s look a bit, however much or little as possible, as long as it means that you have spent at least the time it takes to read this post considering what you do,  and what you might be willing to try out. As Shirley said, “The worst that can happen is you take it all off again at the end and go back to what you like!”It is at this stage of updating or experimentation that make up is very useful when applied a bit more specifically and can be tailored for better effect. Which foundation, we didn’t cover foundations,  you use and how you apply it makes a huge difference for your skin, for example liquid foundations in the Chanel and Laura Mercier brands while expensive have been highly recommended for older women, and for women who set their make up in powders it is recommended to avoid what you might deem lined areas and just powder through the T zone, Forehead and chin because powder gets caught in creases and makes lines more visible.

An even and well matched creamy concealer is usually applied once the eye make up is completely done to erase any fall out and cover blemishes or discolouration, This is best done after foundation and eye make up and before using a set powder if you use one. Some liquid foundations such as Chanel’s vitalumiere that set more sheer must be well buffed into the skin and have been left to be absorbed for a small amount of time before powders or blushes are applied otherwise the powder will immediately cling to it. A primer on the eyes before staring make up will also ensure that make up stays and doesn’t crease, which is particularly helpful for heavily or finely lined lid and creases that might come with age. Most skins will have a yellow, red/ peachy or sometimes ashy undertone and there will be foundations that brighten or counteract these tones depending on whether they are warm or cool shades. While it depends on what brands you favor and whether you have dry, oily or combination skin on how well recommendations work MAC foundation is a great example for this as it simply has each color from light to dark in either NW or NC for this.

Foundation colours in NW20 and NC20

This can be as simple as someone prone to a red face or bad acne, sometimes in teens, using a tinted primer before applying a foundation with slightly more yellow or cooler undertones. Smashbox does a range of such primers!

Colour Correctors

The following are three looks I did on Shirley. The first green look is much darker than she would normally wear but I did it to exaggerate the shading.

2.

The first look is a smokey eye in an olive green, because Shirley has brown eyes and this is one of her complimentary colours. Complimentary colours would be any colours opposite one’s eye colour on a colour wheel, suchas blue eyes look best in burnt oranges, browns and pinks or dull reds, Green eyes are best suited to purples, and brown eyes to greens, greys and blues. When women get older there is some debate as to whether it is still appropriate to use black eyeliner, and I would suggest that this is a personal preference and depends on ones eye shape. However what I did in this look is use the darker secondary or contouring eye shadow colour and brought it close to the lash line as a liner. This is often recommended for women who do not wish to use an actual liner, as it adds emphasis to the lash line. A common symptom that comes with age, though of course varying from person to person, is that the outer corner of the lid and crease droop slightly, creating what is known as a hooded eye. Using a darker colour along the lash line teamed with a good black mascara as demonstrated on Shirley is a way to add depth to the eye as an alternative to eye liner and can be used in this way with any colour combination however neutral or dramatic you would prefer.

Colour wheel

3.

I have also taken the darker secondary colour up along the outer corner of the eye and in a line that when the eye is open joins up with lower lash and water line that blends in no higher than the crease, with the dark colour also concentrated on the outer third of the lid. This is used on ageing or hooded eyes to give the illusion of lifted corners and brighter eyes, changing the natural shape. I did this by creating a V in outer corner that runs along the lash line and the corner of the eye. This should be the darkest and most concentrated part of the look while the rest is blended out for depth and colour.

1.

This look in more neutral day time shades is an example of how the colour is concentrated to the corners before blending, and the picture below the step showing the outline of the shape that creates the illusion of a lifted eye.

2.

3.

Finally I wanted to do something a bit more exciting for women who are reluctant to use iridescent, bright or dramatic glitters as they got older. With a thin black liner applied to the top of Shirley’s eye lid her shape accommodates the look of a wider eye and the glitter while simple is fun and bright and wearable for any age.

. Liner application

To apply a flicked or winged liner that extends further than the corner of the eye one may use her own natural lines as a measurement: Taking the line from the lower lash line across to the tip of the eyebrow. One can get an idea of this by taking a make up brush (or a pencil) and holding it against the corner of one’s nose and running it to the outside of the brow as shown above.

4.

These are what I called “Christmas eyes”. Black liner, lots of glitter and red lips which Shirley doesn’t usually do!

Dame Judi Dench

Finally here is an example of an Dame Judy Dench in Skyfall, whose eyes are an example of those hooded by age. Her make up uses the technique of drawing all attention to the lash line to create space and drama as a substitute to colours on the lid or crease that would merely be obscured when the eye was open. There are many different types of eyes and ways in which time might alter them, and equally as many tips to counter it. If this is interesting or useful to you it would be worth getting a consultation from a make up expert at a store on colour matching or finding out your eye shape and appropriate ways in which to do it up. The most important thing to be said is to shop around and keep having fun with make up!’

While on the subject of eyes, I have always wanted to try the individual lash extensions. As we are off to Byron bay this week I thought it was  a perfect time to try them. I like the idea of not having to bother about mascara while on holiday but still having visible lashes! I had them done at Beauty Sense in Chatswood. The application is fairly quick, the whole thing took 45 minutes. After a few minutes I got used to lying with my eyes closed and I relaxed but initially you blink a lot while you get used to it! You can see the results in the photo. I really love the result, apparently they will last 2-3 weeks if you follow the care instructions. The main downside is that you are unable to get the lashes wet as it will loosen the glue. So if you are a swimmer then they are no good for a beach holiday! I am not so I am really enjoying them and I would definitely do it again maybe even if I was traveling overseas and had lots of long flights and I didn’t want to be bothered with too much make up.

After lash extensions

Gold and red shimmery place mats at David Jones

When I saw these place mats I thought of how beautiful a Christmas dinner table would be set with them. I pictured them with candles, crackers and floral center pieces.

 

This entry was posted in Fashion. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *